28 lipca 1914 roku w Europie rozpoczęła się wielka wojna światowa, która pochłonęła niezliczone życia ludzkie i przyniosła olbrzymie, niepowetowane straty materialne. Choć trudno mówić tu o szczęściu, wojna do Puszczy Białowieskiej dotarła dopiero w drugiej połowie sierpnia 1915 roku. Zatem jeszcze przez cały rok toczyło się w niej w miarę normalne życie. Rejon Puszczy w tym czasie – jak podaje Konrad Wróblewski – zamieszkiwało 14 tysięcy osób.
Ucieczka
W pierwszej połowie sierpnia 1915 roku, gdy już wyraźnie zbliżał się front, Rosjanie rozpoczęli wywożenie z Białowieży najcenniejszego majątku.
W dniu 7 sierpnia 1915 roku ze stacji w Białowieży odprawiono pociągiem do Moskwy wyposażenie pałacu carskiego, a także zbiory otwartego rok wcześniej muzeum przyrodniczo-łowieckiego. Do Rosji pojechały również miejscowe pomniki – obelisk upamiętniający polowanie Augusta III w 1752 roku, posąg żubra, stanowiący pamiątkę łowów cara Aleksandra II w Puszczy w 1860 roku oraz popiersie cara Aleksandra II, ustawione w 1912 roku przed cerkwią. Rzeczy te trafiły do Pałacu Newskiego i na Kreml.
Ewakuacji poddane zostało także co cenniejsze wyposażenie białowieskiej cerkwi. Z dzwonnicy zdjęty został potężny dzwon, którego bicie, przy sprzyjających warunkach atmosferycznych, było słyszalne w odległej o 18 km Hajnówce. W czasie wykonywania tej operacji musiano rozebrać część cerkiewnej ściany. Zapomniano natomiast o zabraniu dwóch dzwonów, o łącznej wadze 56 kg, znajdujących się w cerkwi w uroczysku Krynoczka. Dzwony te zdjęli Niemcy pod koniec lutego 1916 roku.
W dniu 16 sierpnia ewakuowano w głąb Rosji funkcjonariuszy miejscowej administracji leśno-łowieckiej oraz większość mieszkańców okolicznych wsi i osiedli. – Można było zabrać ze sobą to, co zmieści się na furmance – opowiadał Julian Bajko. – Wojsko zrobiło opis pozostawionego inwentarza. Obiecano, że po wojnie będzie wypłacone odszkodowanie. Wiadomo jednak, że tak się nie stało. Część zgromadzonych własnym trudem dóbr białowieżanie sprzedawali miejscowym Żydom.
W Białowieży, która na odchodnym została w znacznej części spalona przez wojska kozackie (w modzie była wówczas tzw. taktyka spalonej ziemi), niektóre rodziny pozostały. Przed deportacją Stoczek liczył 47 gospodarstw (285 mieszkańców), Zastawa – 32 gospodarstwa (175 mieszkańców), Krzyże – 5 gospodarstw (36 mieszkańców). Przed spaleniem uchowała się jedynie wieś Podolany – 23 gospodarstwa (107 mieszkańców). Na Stoczku przed ogniem uchroniła się zabudowa na odcinku od obecnego Zaułka Osoczników do ściany Parku Pałacowego.
Zniszczony został drewniany carski most na rzece Narewce w Białowieży. To samo uczyniono z mostkami na szosie prowadzącej do Hajnówki.
Wszystkie żubry przebywające w białowieskim zwierzyńcu zostały wypuszczone na wolność.
Rosyjskie dowództwo wojskowe pozostawiło w Puszczy niewielki oddział partyzancki, złożony z 80 do 100 żołnierzy, którego zadaniem było niepokojenie Niemców. Wojskowi ci polowali na żubry, które stanowiły dla nich niemalże główny pokarm. Skóry i rogi wymieniali u miejscowych Żydów na produkty pierwszej potrzeby.
Tak zakończył się okres carskiego panowania na tych ziemiach. Nowymi włodarzami Puszczy Białowieskiej i okolicznych ziem zostali Niemcy. Choć ich „rządy” tutaj trwały tylko trzy i pół roku – Puszcza długo nie mogła zabliźnić naniesionych na jej ciele ran.
Oczami niemieckiego żołnierza
Niemcy weszli na teren Puszczy Białowieskiej w drugiej połowie sierpnia 1915 roku (w Białowieży pojawili się już 17 sierpnia). Były to oddziały ugrupowania wojskowego generała-feldmarszałka księcia Leopolda Bawarskiego.
W jednym z oddziałów walczył publicysta, historyk i polityk Wilhelm Feldmann. Dzięki sporządzanym przez niego w tym okresie notatkom frontowym, które później były drukowane na łamach berlińskiego czasopisma „Berliner Tageblatt”, a w 1916 roku ukazały się w wydanej w Monachium książce pt. „Mit der Heeresgruppe des Prinzen Leopold von Bayern nach Weisrusland hinein”, znamy niektóre szczegóły wejścia Niemców do Puszczy.
Feldmann drobiazgowo opisał drogę, prowadzącą z Bielska do Białowieży. Podkreślił, że wyróżniała się ona dobrym wykonaniem. Zanotował też, że pomiędzy Bielskiem i Hajnówką toczyły się krwawe boje, w wyniku których duże straty ponosiły tak wojska rosyjskie, jak i niemieckie.
Parę zdań poświęcił białowieskiej cerkwi, „obrabowanej i bardzo brudnej”. W zachowanym domu parafialnym znaleziono błyszczącą ryzę, którą proboszcz najwyraźniej zgubił, uciekając razem ze swymi wiernymi przez zbliżającym się okupantem.
Feldmann obejrzał też pałac, z którego Rosjanie wywieźli wszystkie meble, dywany i obrazy oraz uszkodzili gaz, wodociągi i elektryczność. Niemcom pozostawili tylko brudne podłogi i kupy śmieci. Feldman określił go jako „budowlę bez gustu w pseudogotyckim stylu”. W pokoju carycy kozacy podarli na szmaty jedwabne firanki, w wielu pokojach zniszczyli podokienniki, podarli również płócienne obicia ścian. W ten sposób doprowadzili pomieszczenie do nadzwyczaj przykrego stanu.
Odnotujmy jeszcze, że w 24 sierpnia, po bitwie pod Nurcem (20 sierpnia), przez Puszczę Białowieską i Białowieżę przedzierał się na wschód I Legion Polski (Puławski) w sile 150 bagnetów, który 10 listopada stoczył walkę pod Zelwą.
Nowi gospodarze
Puszcza Białowieska otrzymała wojskowy zarząd leśny, na czele którego stanął we wrześniu 1915 roku mjr dr Georg Escherich, z zawodu leśnik. Na siedzibę zarządu wybrano Białowieżę. Początkowo zajmował on budynek obok cerkwi (dom parafialny), później został przeniesiony do Domu Świckiego na terenie Parku Pałacowego. Jednym z adiutantów zarządu był porucznik dr K. Rubner, zaś kwatermistrzem – generał Johann von Eisenhart.
We wrześniu 1915 roku na terenie Parku Pałacowego urządzono etapowy szpital polowy. Mieścił się on przez pewien czas w zachowanym do dzisiaj budynku z 1845 roku, na tępnie był przeniesiony do gmachu carskiego Zarządu Puszczy Białowieskiej na terenie Parku Dyrekcyjnego. W opuszczonym budynku urządzone zostało kasyno oficerskie. Dawną wozownię Niemcy przerobili na kino, a w położonym obok Domu Marszałkowskim ulokowali klub żołnierski. W bramie pałacowej urządzono stację telegraficzną.
Na pocztę polową okupanci przeznaczyli budynek szkoły dla dziewcząt na Stoczku (spalił się on w grudniu 2005 roku). W lipcu 1916 roku Białowieża została objęta prywatnym ruchem pocztowym i telegraficznym między Niemcami i okręgiem pocztowym dowództwa wojskowego na Wschodzie.
Dla dzieci rodzin, które pozostały w Białowieży, okupant otworzył szkołę elementarną. Mieściła się ona na Stoczku, w ocalałym domu Michała i Eudokii Dulków. Nauczycielem w tej szkole był młody Niemiec, w cy-wilu także nauczyciel, bardzo srogi i wymagający. W nauczaniu pomagała mu białowieżanka Maria Milko (zamężna – Wołkowycka). Szkoła funkcjonowała do połowy 1918 roku.
Niemcy oszacowali wstępnie wartość Puszczy Białowieskiej na 700-800 milionów marek. Podzielili jej obszar na siedem zarządów leśnych i natychmiast przystąpili do eksploatacji.
W krótkim czasie wybudowano 6 tartaków o 23 trakach, fabrykę wełny drzewnej, terpentyniarnie, pracownię mebli, wozów, łopat, kolb, prochownię. W celu pozyskania węgla drzewnego zakładano mielerze. Wiosną 1916 roku przystąpiono do budowy sieci wąskotorowej kolejki leśnej. Wybudowano łącznie 130 km torów stałych i 120 km torów przenośnych. Do budowy zniszczonych torów kolejowych wyrabiano setki tysięcy podkładów.
Dla ogromnej rzeszy zatrudnionych robotników wzniesiono odpowiednią liczbę baraków. Zakładano polne lazarety, pomieszczenia do odwszawiania, kopano studnie, urządzano elektryczne oświetlenie.
W czasie okupacji niemieckiej powstały w Puszczy nowe osady: w 1915 roku – Grudki, a rok później – Czerlonka (nazywana początkowo Czerlanką). Osady te przetrwały do naszych czasów.
Już pod koniec 1915 roku wybudowano tartaki w Stoczku i Grudkach. Potrzebne urządzenia przywieziono do nich z Belgii. W Stoczku powstała też terpentyniarnia.
Wzniesione przy tych obiektach baraki dla jeńców miały podwójne ściany drewniane, między którymi znajdowała się wełnianka. Ogrzewano je za pomocą pieców wykonanych z cegieł. Wewnątrz mieściły się także kuchnie i jadalnie. Obok baraków instalowano pompy i wieże wodne do zaopatrzenia w czystą wodę z wierconych studzien. Miejsca, gdzie zakładano studnie, zostały wyznaczone za pomocą różdżki radiestezyjnej.
Baraki w Grudkach były obliczone na 800 jeńców i odpowiednią ilość dozorców. Każdy z nich mieścił początkowo po 120, a po zmodernizowaniu – po 200 osób. Zakłady w Stoczku nosiły wspólną nazwę „Zakładów Hindenburga”.
Żołnierze niemieccy dozorujący pracę robotników i jeńców w Stoczku i Grudkach oraz członkowie wojskowego zarządu leśnego mieszkali w Białowieży, zajmując przeważnie budynki w parkach – Pałacowym i Dyrekcyjnym.
Na potrzeby żywieniowe jeńców i zarządu wojskowego zostały przeznaczone pola wsi Podolany. Uprawiano na nich jarzyny i ziemniaki.
W Białowieży powstały dwa duże składy drewna. Jeden mieścił się opodal Stoczka (kierował nim kpt. von Hornung), drugi w Grudkach (kierownik kpt. von Axthalb). Do składu w Grudkach doprowadzono tzw. ślepy tor, który razem z linią do ładowania liczył 400 m. Skład tworzyły trzy place, do których dochodziły osobne tory dojazdowe kolejki leśnej. Dziennie na składzie można było załadować 25-30 wagonów.
Prócz dwóch wymienionych składów, istniał w Białowieży jeszcze trzeci – drewna opałowego na potrzeby zarządu wojskowego. Była tu zainstalowana przenośna piła elektryczna do przerzynania i łupania. Zarząd rocznie zużywał 12-15 tys. metrów sześciennych drewna.
Przy eksploatacji drewna i innych bogactw puszczańskich zatrudnionych było 1200 żołnierzy fachowców, 300 jeńców oraz 8000 robotników.
Pod koniec marca 1917 roku mjr Escherich opracował memoriał o znaczeniu Puszczy Białowieskiej dla gospodarstwa społecznego w Niemczech. Ocenił w nim, że przy pełnym biegu eksploatacji Puszcza będzie mogła dostarczać 25-30 mln marek rocznie. Memoriał został przedłożony rządowi niemieckiemu w sierpniu 1917 roku.
Praca dla okupanta
Mieszkańcy Białowieży i okolicznych wsi, którzy powstrzymali się przed wyjazdem w głąb Rosji, byli przez okupanta zmuszani do pracy w lesie. Mieszkaniec Narewki – Michał Czarniecki, tak wspominał po latach ten okres: „W czasie pierwszej wojny Niemcy nie wywozili ludzi, zakładaliśmy kolejkę leśną. Pozyskiwaliśmy drewno na podkłady. (…) Pracowali wszyscy, szczególnie ci, co nie mieli gospodarek. Żydów, którzy posiadali sklepiki, także wyganiano na robotę, również starych. Żydzi do pracy nie bardzo się rwali. Wchodzili w zarośla świerkowe, a gdy Niemiec szedł i krzyczał „Arbeit!”, przebiegali w inne zarośla. Rankiem Niemiec szedł do pracy na przedzie, a Żydzi ciągnęli się za nim z dala, natomiast z pracy Żydzi rwali naprzód, a Niemiec zostawał z tyłu. Robotników brano z najbliższych wiosek: my z Narewki chodziliśmy pod Kosy Most. Kolejkę ciągnięto od Hajnówki: podkłady i szyny kładła robocza grupa, a my nakładaliśmy do wagoników ziemię” (zob. „Niwa” nr 47/1995).
Olga Szurkowska z Białowieży przekazał z ciężkiego okupacyjnego okresu wspomnienia swego ojca – Emiliana Rusko: „W Podolanach I i II zostały tylko 4 rodziny, które na czas przejścia frontu skryły się z całym dobytkiem w lesie, w uroczysku Bajkow Hrud. Do wsi powróciły późną jesienią. Niemcy zdążyli zająć co lepsze domostwa, a z gorszych zrobili stajnie dla swoich koni. Do Białowieży sprowadzili jeńców Rosjan i Francuzów, zatrudniając ich w tartaku przy obróbce drewna, które masowo wycinali w Puszczy. Tarcicę wysyłali do Niemiec. Przy przeróbce drewna musieli też pracować pozostali mieszkańcy Białowieży, w tym mój ojciec. Wynagrodzenie było bardzo niskie. (…) Niemcy szczególnie okrutnie traktowali jeńców rosyjskich. Mieszkali oni w ziemiankach, głodowali. Gotowano im zupę z ziemniaczanych obierek i brukwi. Pędząc do pracy, zmęczonych i chorych, Niemcy okładali ich pałkami. Jeńcy masowo umierali z wycieńczenia i chorób. Nieco lepiej byli traktowani Francuzi. Otrzymywali oni paczki z Czerwonego Krzyża. Zupy, którymi raczono jeńców rosyjskich, po prostu wylewali. Tak ciągnęło się trzy lata” (zob. „Głos Białowieży” nr 5-6/1999). Cdn
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