Krokodyl z Białowieży – Janusz Korbel

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Janusz Korbel

Markus Krzoska – doktor habilitowany z uniwersytetu w Giessen, zajmującego się wschodem Europy – jest niemieckim historykiem, mieszkającym w Berlinie, piszącym pracę na temat historii regionu Puszczy Białowieskiej. Interesuje go zarówno strona polska, jak i białoruska. Przewodnim wątkiem jego pracy naukowej jest żubr. Nie tyle jego biologia, co symbolika i pytanie, dlaczego właśnie żubr stał się tak ważny dla różnych środowisk i odegrał tak znaczącą rolę w kulturze i historii. Interesuje go oczywiście także rola Niemiec w tragicznej historii regionu Puszczy, zagłada tutejszych Żydów, ale też historia najnowsza. Markus odwiedził Krynki (śladem Sokrata Janowicza i tropem literackiej „Białowieży”), białostocki IPN, gdzie się dowiedział, kto na kogo pisał donosy i ile za to brał pieniędzy. Przejrzał też archiwa w Grodnie w poszukiwaniu śladów sprzed podzielenia się tej kiedyś jednolitej krainy. Markus, chociaż urodzony w Niemczech, mówi dość biegle po polsku, z lekkim śląskim akcentem. Nic dziwnego, skoro jego ojciec urodził się w Rudzie Śląskiej i język ten słyszał w dzieciństwie. Pozwala mu to czytać źródłowe materiały, które wyszukuje w bibliotekach i instytutach. Na pytanie, dlaczego zdecydował się napisać historię regionu Puszczy Białowieskiej, odpowiedział, że nikt tego wcześniej nie zrobił. Nie powstała żadna praca naukowa opisująca z perspektywy historyka ten wielokulturowy region o ciekawych dla całej Europy dziejach. Zdaje sobie sprawę, że jego spojrzenie będzie inne niż kogoś, kto tutaj mieszka, ale z drugiej strony powiada się nie bez racji, że „z oddali widać lepiej”. Mieszkańcy małych regionów postrzegają swoją przeszłość przyczynkarsko, ale zarazem często mitologizują dzieje ze swojej „perspektywy centrum świata”. Rozmawialiśmy kilka miesięcy temu i byłem zaskoczony jego wiedzą i znajomością faktów historycznych oraz chłodnym na nie spojrzeniem.
Ostatnio Markus przyjechał z grupą studentów i naukowców w ramach objazdu po różnych miejscach po stronie polskiej i białoruskiej. W Białowieży poprosił o spotkanie z kilkoma osobami, reprezentującymi różne podejście do regionu (oraz żubra) i różne doświadczenia. Naszych gości najbardziej zaskoczyła wiadomość, że po II wojnie światowej, na polecenie dyrektora Zakładu Badania Ssaków, krzyżowano żubry z krowami, w wyniku czego powstawały ogromne mutanty (po co? – ktoś teatralnie zapytał) oraz inna, opowiedziana przez rodowitego mieszkańca i kronikarza o tym, że do Białowieży, gdy był jeszcze dzieckiem, pewnego razu przypłynął… krokodyl! Pan Piotr wyjaśnił, że wcale nie żartuje. Po drugiej stronie granicy z ówczesnym Związkiem Radzieckim przebywał wtedy jakiś objazdowy cyrk czy zoo, a że wystąpiły ogromne ulewy, ten nieszczęsny krokodyl wydostał się na zewnątrz i z biegiem Narewki wpłynął do Białowieży.
Przypomniałem sobie o mutantach żubroniach i krokodylu, kiedy dzisiaj zadzwonił do mnie zaprzyjaźniony dziennikarz z pytaniem, czy wiem co się buduje przed samym parkiem narodowym. Kiedy zaczął tłumaczyć, że właśnie idzie do rezerwatu i widzi pod lasem koparkę oraz wielkie hałdy ziemi, nie mogłem uwierzyć! Jak to, przecież jeszcze kilka lat temu odpowiednie urzędy odmawiały lokalizacji nowych budynków poza linią wsi w stronę najcenniejszego przyrodniczo obiektu w Polsce. Przecież te historyczne już łąki na Polanie Białowieskiej są wielką wartością krajobrazową. Chwilę potem przyjaciel zadzwonił, że już się dowiedział – to nie budowla, to poprawianie… przyrody. W ramach wielomilionowego projektu, którego celem jest ochrona rzadkiego ptaka – orlika krzykliwego – postanowiono stworzyć mu „lepsze” warunki i na polanie przed rezerwatem koparka kopie sztuczne stawy. Nie lubię tego projektu, bo w ramach niego wycięto także krzaki i drzewa, zdjęto pokrywę ziemi aż do warstwy mineralnej na długości kilku kilometrów i szerokości 40 metrów wzdłuż nieczynnej od lat linii kolejowej przez Puszczę. Po to, żeby orlik miał gdzie polować, chociaż wcześniej nigdy go tam nie było.
Właściwie i dla krokodyla można by stworzyć odpowiednie warunki, kopiąc kolejne stawy. Tylko na zimę trzeba by go zabierać do ogrzewanego pawilonu. Turyści by oglądali i płacili. Mielibyśmy rozwój turystyki! Trochę żartuję, ale nie jest mi do śmiechu, kiedy widzę jak instrumentalnie traktuje się przyrodę i krajobraz.
Białowieża ma pecha ze stawami. Najpierw samorząd domagał się od poprzedniego jeszcze dyrektora parku narodowego, by pozwolił po historycznych stawach w Parku Pałacowym pływać łódkami. Rada naukowa Parku wyraziła zgodę, warunkując to tylko tym, by łódki były stylowe, nawiązujące do przeszłości zabytkowego parku. Upłynęły od tego czasu lata i pomysł więcej się nie pojawił, ale przynajmniej już się nie mówi, że przez „ekologów” nie można pływać po stawach. Niedawno słyszałem, że „przez ekologów” nie można w Białowieży zrobić zalewu na Narewce. Marzenie o zalewie jest tutaj stare jak świat. Organizacja ornitologiczna, która przywraca rzekę do pierwotnego koryta, odpowiedziała, że nie ma nic przeciw, tylko trzeba przygotować odpowiedni projekt do uzgodnień.
Temat zalewu na Narewce jak na razie „wysechł”. A tu tymczasem będziemy mieli stawy u stóp rezerwatu! Niestety, nie będzie można w nich popływać, bo mają służyć drapieżnym ptakom. Skoro tworzymy przyrodę w postaci, jakiej tutaj wcześniej nie było, to może i znajdzie się miejsce dla gatunku, który wcześniej (choć krótko) był – krokodyla, czemu nie? Szkoda tylko, że niszczeją drewniane zabytki z okresu carskiego, a nowe formy małej architektury, pojawiające się przy okazji kolejnych projektów, zupełnie pomijają lokalną tradycję.

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